Vienna is full of cafes. But which are best?
The entrance to the Cafe Hawelka – photo Robert Pimm
Many Viennese cafes are rather good. I like the fact that most of them (not all, sadly) use old-fashioned Viennese coffee types (kleine Schwarzer, kleine Brauner, Verlängerter, Franziskaner) instead of, or sometimes in addition to, the world-conquering Italian descriptors (Cappuccino, Macchiato & Co).
Some Vienna cafes have a wonderful, unrenovated charm, often accompanied by service which varies from the friendly and efficient (more common in cafes outside the first district) to the traditional, uniformed, studied clockwork stop-motion effect where waiters emphasise by their every action both their superiority to the customers and the fact that they will not deviate from their intended, inexorable plan of action under any circumstance.
But then, what do you want? Would you rather, in Vienna, have a traditional-looking Austrian waiter, who maybe doesn’t speak English and isn’t conspicuously polite, or a fast-moving identikit youth who could be in Seattle or Siena?
I even mention the service of Viennese waiters in my novel Biotime.
Viennese cafes also often serve terrific cakes; and other food and drink, from sausages to breakfast and beer. Check the menu; and choose your cakes at the counter if you’re not sure.
All of the cafes reviewed are ones I would to return to. If a cafe does not appear in the list, that means either that I haven’t tried it yet; or that I have tried it and am not, erm, desperate to return.
Cafe Bräunerhof (Stallburggasse 2, 1st District). Nestling in a back street near the tourist heart of Vienna, the Cafe Bräunerhof has nonetheless kept a wonderfully unrenovated traditional ambience, complete with uniformed waiters and, sometimes, live music at no extra charge. The Bräunerhof has a particularly enjoyable good “stepping back in time” feeling, with plenty of locals reading books and newspapers. Apparently the Bräunerhof has a reputation for grumpy waiters but on numerous visits mine have been conspicuously fast and civil. One of my favourites.
The cavernous, welcoming interior of the Cafe Bräunerhof
Cafe Central (Herrengasse 14, 1st District). Amongst the most famous of Vienna’s traditional cafes, the Central occupies an exquisite space in the Palais Ferstel, originally built in 1860 to house the Austrian National Bank and stock exchange. Although opened “only” in 1876, the cafe’s historical legacy is powerful: Wikipedia says that when Victor Adler objected to Count Berchtold, foreign minister of Austria-Hungary, that war would provoke revolution in Russia, he replied: “And who will lead this revolution? Perhaps Mr. Bronstein (Leon Trotsky) sitting over there at the Cafe Central?” Despite repeated renovations, the Central has masses of atmosphere and is worth a visit, so long as the queues are not too long. Service can be a bit slow.
The Cafe Central is spectacular – Photo RP
The confusingly name Cafe Engländer (the name of a former proprietress Salomea Engländer, not a nationality) sits quietly in the Postgasse in the 1st District, somewhat off the beaten track. Unremarkable from the outside, the interior is a gem: cool, ’50s design backs up Engländer’s reputation as a creative, nonconformist hangout. The waiters are 100% traditional – uniforms, no smiles – but actually offered fine service on a recent visit including making a big effort to find me a table in the non-smoking section. The Cafe also has a reputation for good food, which I’ve yet to try out. I’ll be back.
From outside, the subtle interior of the Engländer is hard to make out – Photo RP
Cafe Hawelka (Dorotheergasse, 1st District). A city-centre cafe with a pleasing sense of history, including busts of former owners Josefine and Leopold Hawelka and apparently unrenovated since I lived in Vienna in the 1980s. Top ambience with a pleasing sense of calm and refuge as soon as you walk in, although proximity to the Graben means it can get a bit full. Unique and another of my top favourites.
Kleines Cafe (Franziskanerplatz 3, 1st District). Rarely was a cafe so aptly named as the Kleines Cafe (“Small Cafe”): it is microscopic. Located in one of the most ancient parts of Vienna, its unrestored facade conceals a pint-sized, unrestored interior. Despite its location close to peak tourist zones of the city the Kleines Cafe exhibits the so-laidback-as-to-be-nearly-horizontal style of the best old Viennese cafes, with locals taking their time to sit and read a newspaper over a leisurely cup of coffee, a beer or a sausage. A delightful, quirky place and cosy, though it can be smoky if more than a few people light up. Take care in the summer: the seats in the square outside may not belong to the Kleines Cafe.
Kleines Cafe (bottom left) and Franziskanerplatz by night – Photo Robert Pimm
Cafe Korb (Brandstätte 9, 1st District). You can tell the Korb is something special the moment you click on their website: a steaming cup of coffee invites you, Alice-like, to “Enter”. Stepping into the cafe itself is initially less intriguing: although the cafe was founded in 1904 (Sigmund Freud was a regular), the decor is the result of a 1960s makeover and not everyone’s cup of tea. But the ubiquitous pictures of the owner, the legendary Susanne Widl, are a hint that the Korb is something special. A decorated cellar lounge offers a rich programme of cultural stimulation from music to poetry to readings by our very own Robert Pimm; the cool manager, Franz Schubert, plays the saxophone. Even the loo doors are interesting (big in Japan, apparently). A place of special Viennese magic.
The “Gents” (left) and “Ladies” signs at the Cafe Korb – photo Robert Pimm
Cafe Landtmann (Universitätsring, 1st District). The Landtmann is one of the most famous Vienna cafes and meeting places, sitting on the Ringstrasse close to the Burgtheater, the Town Hall, the University and a host of city centre attractions. From the outside it is unexceptional; but inside, a series of spectacular linked rooms offer a host of cosy seating options – once you can get a waiter to take you to a table. The atmosphere is bustling and cosmopolitan, with plenty of both Viennese and tourists, and the uniformed waiters rushing around holding trays stacked with coffee and cakes can be a bit intimidating on a first visit.
Cafe Morgenstern (Sankt-Ulrichs-Platz 5, 7th District). Hidden off the street in the beautiful but curiously underpopulated St Ulrichs Platz, the Morgenstern is determinedly grungy and alternative. Everyone is cool and hanging out, both staff and waiters. The interior is fetchingly shabby and somewhat Gothic with a sense of numerous regulars and a hint of post-communist retro-chic in the illuminated red star. Best feature for me was the terrace outside, with an immense sense of place. We enjoyed a decent Schladminger BioZwickl and a “Baguette Morgenstern”. Worth a visit if you fancy something different off the beaten track.
The grunge decor in the Morgenstern – RP
Cafe Museum (Operngasse, 1st District). Occupying a prominent position on the corner of the Karlsplatz opposite the “Third Man” tours, the Naschmarkt and the Secession, the Cafe Museum is the epitome of an traditional coffee house which has been restored to modern standards. It used to be my regular in the mid-’80s when I lived nearby in the Wiedner Hauptstrasse. As the pictures below show, the restoration has improved the external appearance of the cafe, which serves a comprehensive range of food and drink in a tastefully-restored interior and boasts a large terrace outside. The Cafe Museum also runs a respected series of literary readings and, like the best cafes, doesn’t rush you. Service on my latest visit was fine. But the restored cafe perhaps lacks the charm which makes cafes like the Sperl, Hawelka or Braunerhof stand out for me.
The Cafe Museum in 2017 – RP
The Cafe Museum in 1987 (pre-renovation) – RP
Oberlaa Konditorei (Kurbadstrasse, 10th District). A Vienna institution which has spawned a chain of pleasant cafes, with a strong focus on cakes (I had the Apfel Streusel Kuchen – apple crumb cake – and a kleiner Schwarzer). A bustling, lively place whose modern decor is offset, in the original near the Kurpark, by a certain grandeur and an impressively large range of cakes. Got a sweet tooth? You know you deserve it.
The terrific cake selection at the Oberlaa Konditorei – Photo Robert Pimm
Palmenhaus (Burggarten 1, 1st District). One of Vienna’s newer venues, opened in 1998, in an airy greenhouse built in 1901. In winter, you can sit inside; in summer, the terrace is beautiful, with a view of the Burggarten. Good for people-watching or chilling; no pressure to move. The furniture on the terrace is functional; that inside is comfier. A friendly place with a lively ambience.
The Palmenhaus terrace has a lovely location – Photo Robert Pimm
Cafe phil (Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12, 6th District). Almost opposite Cafe Sperl (below) the phil is a self-confident alternative antithesis to traditional Viennese cafes. Books, music, furniture and terrible puns are all on the menu (‘phil free to come back’; ‘bilbio-phil’; ‘audio-phil’; ‘retro-phil’; ‘phil-good’ and so on). The web-site (‘phil.info, as in viel’) is a conglomeration of cultural cool. Criticised by some as a hangout of ‘bobos’ (bourgeois bohemians’) the phil’s menu even includes a ‘bobotoast’. It’s scarily effective – as if Jeff Bezos, say, had taken over your favourite cafe, researched what you wanted, and delivered it with wit, panache and profitability. Next to all this, the actual food and drink feels almost incidental. Decent street terrace.
Suitably arty Phil-photo of the Phil-fare (with philburger) – RP
Cafe Sperl (Gumpendorfer Straße 11, 6th District). Another favourite of mine, located in a backstreet close to, yet divorced from, tourist zones, the Sperl was recommended by a reader. I found it a treasure: spacious and atmospheric in a perfect 19thC way with faded plush seats, high ceilings, uniformed but efficient waiters, and a delightful, timeless air which it is hard to imagine persisting in any other European city. A brilliant space to spend time: I’ll be back (stop press: returned. Still lovely. Great clientele, too). 100% Viennese. Another place I’ve been impressed by good service.
The Cafe Sperl on a quiet Thursday night – photo Robert Pimm
Cafe Schwarzenberg (Kärntner Ring 17, 1st District). The Schwarzenberg calls itself the oldest cafe on Vienna’s mighty Ringstrasse and a sensitive late 1970s restoration has left it with one of the most pleasing interiors amongst the grand Viennese cafes. Service is in the stately Ringstrasse tradition where the customer is expected to know his or her place and waiters of immense experience know that when things get busy, thirsty clientele and uncleared tables will both have to wait a bit. Clientele is mostly international, but I warmed to the waiters seeing them joshing with elderly Viennese regulars. My Kleine Schwarzer (see pic) was delicious and hot. I liked the sugar dispensers instead of sachets.
I enjoyed a fine coffee & leisurely read at Cafe Schwarzenberg – RP
Cafe Tirolerhof (Führichgasse 8, 1st District). A traditional cafe in the heart of Vienna’s tourist zone with plenty of space inside and a sunny terrace in good weather. The Tirolerhof has the kind of comfortable, spacious but unrenovated look I like best in Viennese cafes, and famously does not even have a website. The cafe polarises opinion: TripAdvisor has several reviews complaining about the service; but on my one visit so far I found the service, despite the traditional feel of the place, quick and responsive; and enjoyed both clientele (mostly locals) and coffee to the extent that I’m thinking this might become one of my regular haunts. I’d be interested to hear your views.
The Tirolerhof on a bright October day: strictly traditional – RP
Ungar Grill (Burggasse 97, 7th District). It is perhaps cheeky to review the Ungar Grill, which is off the tourist beaten track and not strictly a cafe. Rather, it a place where eating and drinking (notably of beer) play as important a role as coffee consumption; and cakes are not a speciality. But the Ungar Grill deserves a mention as an exceptional example of the no-problem type of Viennese inner-city establishment where the prices are modest; the food decent; the service good; and both staff and guests have flair, perhaps based around the proprietors’ fondness for modern Austrian music and musicians, many of whom seem to hang out here. I like the neon; and it’s an excuse for a stroll down the Burggasse, an example of the vibrancy of some city centre zones outside the 1st District.
The Ungar Grill by night – Photo Robert Pimm
Cafe Zartl (Rasumofskygasse 7, 3rd District). A friend recommended Cafe Zartl after enjoying a fine family breakfast, and I checked it out on a sunny Sunday evening to find I was the only guest. Despite this, the service was not outstanding. Outside and in, the Zartl looks perfect for a faded, traditional Vienna cafe, and is close to the Hundertwasserhaus, guaranteeing some tourist visits. But it doesn’t quite have the rich (tho’ equally faded) decor of, say, the Sperl, or masses of atmosphere (hard, admittedly, when you are the only guest). Worth a visit if you’re in the area.
Cafe Zartl looks great in the evening sun – Photo Robert Pimm
Zum Schwarzen Kameel (Bognergasse 5, 1st District) is not exactly a cafe but I have included it as it is something of a Viennese institution. Nestled in the heart of the First District close to a plethora of so-called designer shops (Prada, Louis Vuitton, Chanel et al) it is frequently packed with both tourists and well-heeled locals enjoying an eclectic blend of alcohol, open sandwiches, cakes and hot beverages. My first impression was: “this is all a bit much” (or, as the Germans might say, schickimicki). My second, and conclusive, impression was: “das hat ‘wos” (this place has a certain something). Service at the standing bars (there are no tables) is excellent; the decorative details (see picture at main blog) are exquisite; and the ambience has an eccentric, headlong, city flair. Worth a visit at almost any time of day.
Some of the staff at the Kameel make eccentricity an art form – Photo RP
What do you think? I’d love to hear from you. Do you disagree – or have a favourite cafe I should check out? You can comment using the form at the foot of the page.
And where was that cafe whose head waiter told my host – someone who had been going there for years – that if he was in a hurry he should have stayed at home? Guesses welcome!
And if you want to read how I’d run a cafe, restaurant or Hotel, check out my Hotel Stories – entirely 100% fictional in every case.
Forthcoming Vienna cafe reviews – let me know if you have other favourites I should check out:
Cafe Alt Wien, Bäckerstraße 9, 1st District
Cafe Espresso, Burggasse 57, 1070 Wien
Cafe Frauenhuber, Himmelpfortgasse 6, 1010 Wien (advertises itself as Vienna’s oldest cafe).
Cafe Jelinek (Otto-Bauer-Gasse 5, 1060 Wien)
Cafe Kafka (Capistrangasse 8, 1060 Wien)
Cafe Malipop (Ungargasse, 3rd District). The review at the link says kissing in the Malipop is forbidden, which reminds me of a great story from 1985… more later
Cafe Marks, Neustriftgasse 82, 1070 Wien
Cafe Mozart, Albertinaplatz 2, 1010 Wien. Strongly recommended by a reliable person (Brigitte T).
Cafe Prückel (Stubenring 24 (Luegerplatz), 1st District)
Cafe 7*Stern (Siebensterngasse, 7th District)
The Cafe 7*Stern – Photo Robert Pimm
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P.P.S. see my piece When dinner becomes the last supper for a tongue-in-cheek guide to “why German waiters are the best”.