Robert Pimm

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Pure writing inspiration: Loutro, Crete

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In the shade of a quiet taverna, eight people sit writing.  Crickets chirp on the fragrant hillside.  A glistening kebab rotates, wafting mouthwatering smells towards us.  A fishing boat nudges through the bay, creating gurgling ripples in the calm blue water.  My pen scrapes across the page.

The village of Loutro has no roads or vehicles.  

The “Poetry and Writing” courses in the tiny Cretan village of Loutro are a unique way to focus for one, two or three weeks on a writing area of your choice in a sparkling Greek resort.  The courses are organised by Stewart Wills, the unclassifiable spirit being behind espirita – slogan: “A not-for-profit travel service for the cultural traveller”.  Other espirita offerings include Taiko Drumming in Japan, The Oriental Garden in China, and Aromazzata in Italy: “Aromazzata, a play on the Italian word for flavoured, offers a moment to indulge ‘the theatre of beauty’, to reflect upon the wonders of the human creation, to appreciate that life is a wonderful gift, to be savoured to the full.”

Sounds good to me.

I attended the “One Short Story” course on Loutro in summer 2019, tutored by Christopher Wakling, author of seven fine novels and lead fiction tutor at Curtis Brown Creative.  I’d been on an Arvon writing course led by Chris before, and enjoyed the experience (links in bold italics are to other posts on this site).  “One Short Story” was excellent: I found the mixture of tuition, writing time and beautiful surroundings conducive to creativity and managed to write a new, 8,500 word Hotel Story within the week.

The new story is called Total Control.

Writing my new Hotel Story “Total Control” in Loutro

A lot of things were right about the Loutro writing course:

  1. great tutors: our One Short Story course was led by Chris and the poetry course running in parallel by American poet Kathryn Maris and Irish poet Maurice Riordan.  All power to Stewart for getting such accomplished course leaders;
  2. inspirational surroundings: the espirita website has masses of feedback from enthused writers.  I can see why: Loutro is small enough to be cosy and large enough to offer facilities and space; and being car-free, is blissfully quiet (although not deserted – plenty of other people, including many Greek families, are there on holiday, too). See also productivity below.
  3. Space: all the accommodation has a balcony, a view of the bay and an en-suite bathroom.  Stewart books it for you; you pay the hotel on arrival.  You have all the privacy you want in your room, or can wander out into the village to meet others in tavernas or bars.  Afternoons are free to explore nearby beaches (accessible via a walk or a boat trip); to hike a nearby canyon; or, if you are feeling inspired, to write in a taverna or your room or balcony.  Most evenings offer some form of optional group activity (a star-gazing walk, or a trip to a village around the bay).  I found it a good balance of privacy and company;
  4. did I mention the beaches and canyons?  Nearby Sweetwater Beach, about an hour east on foot (surrounding by fragrant herbs and flowers) or ten minutes by boat, is vast and scenic; Marmara Beach, an hour to the west, petite and pebbly with swimming caves and an outstanding taverna.  The surrounding mountains offer a cornucopia of hiking trails, including the nearby Aradhena Gorge.  Take your walking boots;
  5. organisation: this isn’t a standard writing course.  You make a reservation; pay the course fee, and that’s it.  You arrange you own transport (Stewart may help with taxi connections to ensure people arriving or leaving at an airport at the same time can share a fare) and pay your own meals and accommodation.  You have no sense of being dragooned or over-organised.  In fact, you feel rather as if you’re on your own Greek holiday with a course taking place to which you’re also invited.  Lovely;
  6. as I wrote in my Arvon Review, being with other writers is stimulating and enjoyable.  I found myself picking up tips, learning, being inspired and making friends;
  7. productivity: I found the rhythm of the day generated lots of writing.  Courses ran from 1000-1300, with a break in the middle for an hour to write, mid-morning, fuelled in my case by a Greek coffee by the waterfront.   We then had evening course sessions from 1800-1915 – in this case, devoted to 1:1 sessions with Chris.  I found it liberating to think that I could, if I wished, write from 1300 until it grew dark – and if I wished, thereafter.  You don’t need to get mystic about the blue waters and the chirping of the crickets to feel that this is a great place to write.  But you can if you want.

The “One Short Story” crew hard at work in the taverna

In summary, I would recommend Loutro as a relaxing and inspirational place to attend a writing course in stunning surroundings with a good deal of freedom to do what you want.  If you like structure and want to be told what to do, this may not be the place for you.

A sunset in Loutro

If you want to know more about my thoughts on writing, you might like to look at my posts:

P.S See also my review of the Skyros writing course I attended a few years ago, as well as my review of Arvon writing courses.

P.P.S. I hope you’ve found this useful.  If so, please follow me on Facebook.  Or you can join my mailing list – I’ll be delighted to give you a free “Hotel Story” to say thanks.  Check out the range of writing on this site via my 5 pleasure paths.



  1. Wolfgang Tumler says:

    Looks great. Best wishes , W.

    Von meinem iPhone gesendet



  2. Catherine Koika says:

    Lovely experience! Sunsets by the seaside are always inspiring in Greece… A unique touch of beauty in the open horizon..
    Best wishes for the new hotel story!.


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